Cyclon Engine Maintenance
Recommended use F2D engines 1. What is new and special about the engine.
In the motor RS7 2005 provided for the use of shims to adjust the volume of the combustion chamber, but the design allows the head without a gasket (head zashtiftovana of cranking, and does not damage the tube surface), changing only the head (different volume). This eliminates the need for such a small engine parts, as the strip. Not very convenient to use the pads when you need to quickly overcome the doge or motor.Esli strip dropped, a lot of problems with its clean, no crooking her. With the head everything is simple - take, rubbed the plane of contact with a sleeve and put into place. Pin allows the head to twist the candle of the head without the nuts - just put in place and remove the key.
Combined bearing with balls 3.5 mm gives an almost life-bearing life. During its operation is not "erased" any radical podshipnik.Ego load 540kg (with the usual 180 kg). If you are replacing, and conventional bearings, and the combined support - the same process: heated up - pulled the bearings, heated - insert bearing. In addition, we produce specially for fans of persistent conventional bearings motor RS7M at the same price. Motor design allows for a shaft with a combined drawing and Shaft with conventional bearings. So that in future modeler can set yourself sovmeschenku.
On a normal engine does not solve the problem with vibration, which incorporated in the design of conventional motora.Na RS7 turn the suction on the crankcase allow perfect balance shaft - so there is virtually no vibration.
An ordinary motor no-no yes and grass from under the head, because the head is flat (not inserted into the sleeve), with the slightest dust particle - sniffs. Draws people from all over the crown forces, not to grasses, and then can not unscrew head - prihvatyvaet thread. At RS7 head is inserted into the sleeve is sealed tightly and as kontrporshen and slightly tighten the nut enough of the hand - and no wheezing.
The back cover of an ordinary motor on a small bolt that often frustrate the thread, and Carter can kick and go to service ..., screws are always lost in the grass, twisting their long and uncomfortable. On the RS7 is the back cover of glass-filled nylon with a handy clip on the crank, and attracted a large nut from the well-tempered V95T, 3 turns nuts - and the cover is removed (or installed).
On a normal engine used the nose bearing 6h15h5 with balls a little more than 2 mm., We have to constantly change the bearing after the competition. On the RS7 is a nasal 7h17h5 bearing with balls of 3 mm, and must be replaced every two seasons.
Ordinary motor is very sensitive to weather. Few missed in regulation - and the motor zavyakal. At RS7 no such problems, and the motor is operating normally in a wide range of rotation of the needle jet. This is very handy in battle. The motor is simply impossible to make blather (unless you put the poor clearly visible mode). Mode set easily even deaf - has closed the needle to the disappearance of the smoke, and then opened until byma - in flight!
Ordinary motor has to put on a model with a turn to the "twisted" motor mount for a small deflection angle exhaust pipe with a silencer. Complex motor-often bursts of vibration, and motor flies so that they can not find. With me 3 engine flew away entirely. During the landing on his back - damaged front section and the crankcase golovka.Nash same motor RS7 put to a direct motor mount of V95T. During the 2005 season is not broke no motor mount for 100 motor at a constant operation.
So that the judge himself - wins our engine in the serviceability or not.
Ordinary motor again flies, and then after 10-15 flights slower and medlennee.Eto associated with the pair and a connecting rod. Somehow, the pair quickly "shrink", and a long rod starts to crawl on the back cover. In general, the problem with the resource. A RS7 immediately flies faster than conventional motor, and then roll up and flies faster and faster, and gaining the maximum in 20-30 flights (this, incidentally, allows young soldiers unconsciously adapt to high velocities).
If you compare the cost of engines, then let's see a complete set motorov.K usual motors all need to buy for more money. A to RS7 attached directly: Candle Nelson 152 USD F2D-motor-200 rub -Propeller AKM 120 rubles Key for the head / back cover 159 rubles. Total 631 RUR
The cost of the motor grew because the motor is made very carefully and accurately and reliably, and has full integration for flight. Also in the RS7 applied the latest German materials pistons and connecting rods that once a positive impact on reliability and service life, and the German radical bearing (in the form RS7M).
2. Candles It is recommended to use only original candle Nelson HD with family spirals.
3. Propeller Diameter of 160 mm, angles: 8gr at 160, 10 grams to 140, 14gr to 120 mm With these parameters the best flying propeller Seregina. and AKM
4. Engine Mounts Engine mount is made of high strength alloy and V95T. Very resource and solid.
5. Mount muffler The silencer is necessary to fix a tail part of a special clamp spring wire 2 mm in diameter. Usually clamp combined with a hook for a tape. Zhdya to clamp not itched for the muffler clamp on tubing wear.
6. Fasteners To mount the motor and motor mount is recommended to use hardened screws M3h12. They do not stretch when tightened and unscrewed by itself.
7. Motor Insurance The motor according to the rules must have insurance in case of failure of the engine fixing collisions and ram models. It is recommended to use the spring wire diameter 0,6 mm
8. Fuel Break-in is recommended to use the fuel 20% castor oil and 80% methanol. For the safety of the standard 10% nitro, 20% castor oil, 70% methanol.
9. Nipple For the nipple is recommended to use a latex hose. Winter - yellow. Summer - black.
10. Hose The hose connecting the motor to the reservoir (nipple) usually use silicone-section 2x5 mm, but it is better to use the hose from the gas-oil resistant rubber - it is stronger, so less frequently damaged during landing at the motor running and never flies with the jet in flight.
11. The combustion chamber and the gap The recommended amount of the combustion chamber at different weather conditions: Temperature with volume cc -10 ...- 25 0, 15 -10 ... +10 0, 17 10 ... 20 0, 18 20 ... +30 0, 19 30 ... 40 0, 20
Procedure volume measurement is as follows: • Remove the candle • drive the piston at TDC • Dial fuel cc syringe • Fill the syringe fuel into the combustion chamber Change in volume - original nickel gasket 0,05 mm from a kit, supplied to the motor. The use of other pads are not allowed.
12. Needle For a good start the motor turning the needle is configured to supply fuel droplets - so that the fuel was dripping. Believed to successfully set up a needle For the start the motor, if caught during the time when the fuel passes from the continuous stream of droplets.
13. Run the engine in cold weather - Pre-motor (home heating) should be thoroughly washed with methanol and castor oil from any oil there, dry and rub with kerosene - It is recommended for winter to put into the motor bearings with large radial clearances (18-25 microns) - A fuel with a nitromethane 10% Reduce engine-cooling (eg shaking his head motor with something) - Set recommended for these weather conditions, the combustion chamber. - When you start to drip in futorku 2-3 drops of gasoline lighter or a mixture of methanol and ether 1:1 - Battery for a candle wrapped in insulation, or keep it in your pocket to warm - The fuel to pour into a metal flask and heated to boiling using a boiler - Insulate the fuel tank and all fuel system (valves, filters, etc.) - Rinse thoroughly with a candle from castor oil
14. Run the engine in hot weather In hot weather, to improve the re-start the engine it is recommended to cool the engine with water and drip 2-3 drops of water in futorku
15. Service engine after falling zemlyudlya run • dig up in zabivshey futorku land aperture • Open the needle on the 3-4 turns • Dramatically submit fuel futorku • Remove the ground from futorki making sure that everything is absolutely clean • Water cooled motor
16. Running Prepare the motor to the run-in. Put on the motor is the easiest propeller. Set a maximum volume chamber run in the engine to the fuel without nitromethane 20-30 minutes on an extremely rich regime on earth and make 5.3 flight on the rich mode, gentle maneuvers. After running to replace the candle on a new and begin setting up the motor in flight on a fuel with nitromethane.
17. Setting Motor Recommended to remove the motor at maximum capacity on fuel with a nitromethane gradually within 3-5 flights. On the ground for a model with a properly configured needle should be small smoke plume. And with a brief compression of the cambric motor should not react to it regime change.
18. To replace the gasket on the motor RS7 • Loosen the tightening of candles • drive the piston at TDC • Remove the nut head • Remove the head from the motor • Add or subtract washers. Note - when installing additional pads on RS7 they need to slip under the pin head! • Place the head in place • Tighten the nut head • Check that poison the air or not
19. To replace the gasket on the motor RS7M • Loosen the tightening of candles • drive the piston at TDC • Unscrew the nut 2-3 turns heads • pull out the crown of the sleeve with pliers for a candle • Remove completely the nut head • Remove the head from the motor • Add or subtract strip • Place the head in place • Tighten the nut head
20. Disassembling the motor • Install the propeller • Loosen the tightening of candles • Remove the muffler together with sealing ring • Unscrew the nut back cover • drive the piston at TDC • Remove the back cover with pliers for a special ponytail • Remove the head as in items for replacement pads • Lower the piston to BDC • Remove the liner by the piston inserting a wooden stick into the side vent window casings. Warning - can not insert any wand in the exhaust or use metal objects as sticks! You can bend or shaiun otkroshit coating on the edges of windows! • Raise the piston to TDC. • Remove the connecting rod with the crank shaft with a special miniature T-shaped crowbar from the 3-mm spring wire rod podkovyrnuv relying on the cheek of the shaft. Attention - piston thus should only be at TDC! • Remove the needle jet. If necessary - just vypressovyvaetsya jet. He stands with nyatyagom crankcase 0.02 mm • Remove the propeller • Remove bearing washer propeller pullers • Heat the crankcase up to 110 º C. WARNING - Do not overheat to avoid damaging the plastic separator main bearing! • Remove the shaft with bearings • Squeeze out a wooden stick the nose bearing • Using tweezers, remove one of the retaining ring from the piston • Squeeze your finger from the piston
21. Disassembly of the combined support "shaft / bearing radical" • Place a towel on the table in order to avoid loss of beads • Using a special L-shaped crowbar from 3-mm spring wire cage squeeze of main bearing in the two opposite sides, with the flywheel shaft, and remove the cage from the shaft. • roll in balls on one side and remove the outer bearing collar from the shaft
22. Assembling the combined support "shaft / bearing radical" • Place a towel on the table in order to avoid loss of beads • Get a shaft in the left hand for the flywheel and screw up the incline at 45 º • throw the shaft cage • Apply the seven balls in the clip • Raskatov balls uniformly • Insert a separator • Engage the separator on the balls flat ends of the tube
23. Motor assembly Assembling the motor - in reverse order: • Assemble the piston - connecting rod - a finger. Attention - lubrication groove along the connecting rod and openings in the piston skirt should be on one side! • Set with tweezers retaining ring. Attention - check the reliability of the installation of the ring for tugging it with tweezers! • Heat the crankcase up to 120 º C • Insert into the case pre-assembled shaft until it stops • Insert the nose bearing until it stops • Cool Carter • Establish a support washer and tighten the propeller • Ensure there is an axial backlash. Warning - if there is no backlash, it is possible to tap on coca propeller along the shaft a little magic hammer until the backlash. Gap should be 0.05 ... 0.07 mm. The remaining assembly operations normal.